Hurulu Eco-Park: Elephants!

Enjoyed a bit of a sleep-in this morning, rising at 8.30 am, having breakfast, then relaxing in our room until 12 noon. At that time we met a guy called Madhu out the front, who took us in a big battered jeep to Hurulu Eco-Park, with a stop on the way at an ATM. We gave him 25,000 and he got tickets, and we set off into the long grass of the reserve.

500-600 elephants wander in this park, Kaudulla National Park, and Minneriya National Park. From July to October, 300 or so gather at Minneriya. At this time of year we were keepign our expectations low, and when Madhu stopped to show us a chameleon clinging to a tree I thought we night see a few birds and small animals.

So we were shocked when further along the rutted mud track we came across an elephant peacefully munching on the lush green vegetation just a stone’s throw off the track. Then there were small family groups, then a solitary male, then larger groups, then young elephants standing on the track passing right next to our jeep – it was an unbelievably special experience.

We got a spit of rain at the star of the expedition and then the weather held and remained relatively cool and clean. Much of the time we were standing up in the jeep (he folded back the fabric roof), clinging to the metal frames as it jeep rocked and rolled over the terrain like a Spanish galleon rounding the Cape. Madhu kept in touch with his spotter – or perhaps there’s a network of info between all the jeeps currently in the park – and skilfully took us from elephant group to elephant group. The solitary male was a highlight, a stream of fluid from a gland in front of his ear the tell-tale sign that it was mating season. The females were in groups with the young elephants.

We felt a little bit conflicted when groups of jeeps gathered, everyone clicking and filming like mad – especially when two young elephants were right in the middle of the track. But they had vast areas to roam in and could have got away from the humans easily. Of course elephants getting habituated to humans isn’t a good thing, but I suppose such is the price of compromise to maintain the habitat.

The fee for the 5 how trip was 25,000 (about $NX150) and we were so pleased with Madhu’s patience and friendliness – we had the jeep to ourselves and he never rushed us – we gave him a 10,000 tip, which he seemed very happy with.

What a truly incredible experience – the first time we’ve seen elephants in the wild. For the first time I began to get as excited about the prospect of an African safari trip as Carol is. There really is something special about seeing wild animals free in their own habitat.

Back at the hotel we showered and changed, then leaded out again via tuk tuk (the same driver who took us to Dambulla) to a nearby resort called King’s Resort, a pretty swish place with a spotless pool and a stunning view of the two rocky outcrops of Sigiriya across pristine countryside. The very attentive and friendly staff set us up on a terrace by ourselves with drinks and nibbles, and we watched the sun set and the distant stick figures on the peak of Pidurangala, whose bare top looks like a huge rocky seat for a god. The view must have been amazing up there but it’s a 2 hour climb up and a long descent in the dark.

Then we moved to the lovely restaurant by the pool, and enjoyed the best meal we’ve had in Sri Lanka, and possibly anywhere for the last few years. We both had rice and curry – Carol vegetarian, prawn for me – and  it was an absolutely delicious, subtly flavoured selection of dishes. Rice grown in their own field, wing beans, dhal, beetroot, aubergine, sambal – all in terracotta pots with individual ladles. The chef came out and was obviously so proud of his work, and deserved to be, it was all incredible. We told them we’d retum tomorrow night, and I accidentally left an outrageously high tip, so we definitely have to, so I can even out that a bit! Still, great value for such a lovely evening, by any standards.