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An earlier start at 7am, and another tasty breakfast. We caught our first taxi near the hotel entrance to take us to Crawford Market (the driver said 200 R, I made it 150 R); an old undercover market which unfortunately was only just stirring this early in the morning. We walked south from there, checking out the colonial-era Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus train station, which from the outside is a huge Victorian gothic pile but inside is your usual big city central train station. While we stood in a corner a group of young women approached to take selfies with us – the first of many such requests during our trip!

Continuing south, we tracked down an art supply store called Art Block, hidden away inside and on the second level of the countless run-down facades, and only just opening for the day. Inside was a perfect little store where I immediately found this diary – exactly what I was looking for. Nearby was an upmarket store called FabIndia which Carol was keen to visit, though it turned out she didn’t buy anything and I got myself a very nice wool vest.

After some struggles with Google Maps we found a nice restaurant called Burma Burma that had delicious non-alcoholic cocktails and tasty food. The service was slow, though perhaps we’re not attuned to the local rhythms yet.

Time for a rest and a recharge, so we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel, where I updated this diary.

Early evening we headed out again in a taxi (this time the driver asked 300 R, but he accepted 150 R after a good-natured haggle with me leaning through the passenger window) to the Intercontinental on the long foreshore of Marine Drive, facing the Arabian Sea. We’d chosen The Dome, their rooftop bar, and this proved to be perfect as the view was incredible, the service friendly, the food good, and very importantly, the DJ played a constant stream of atmospheric beats that perfectly complimented the setting of a big red sun into the pollution haze hanging above the ocean. Young women preened themselves for their iPhones, a man went down on one knee to propose to his girlfriend (she accepted), and the sun set and yielded the spotlight to the colourfully lit ribbon of Marine Drive and the constant stream of beeping traffic. It was a magical, perfect few hours.

Another wonderful day, and it’s hard to believe we’ve been in Mumbai only 48 hours. Back to The President for a relatively early night in preparation for our last full day here tomorrow.

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